Greek inspired Lamb Manicotti and an Alternate Meatball Recipe

This is one of my oldest recipes. I came up with it when I was 15 or so after a three week trip to Europe when I was 14. My father is an artist and was at the time on the art faculty at Texas State University. At that time we had a sculpture teacher by the name of Alex Kritselis who was originally from Athens, Greece. You can find his bio here. While Alex was at Texas State he always hosted a traditional goat roast each easter and the first one was at my family's home in Wimberley, Texas. I paid close attention to his meat rub of herbs, olive oil and lemon, and the flavor was always amazing even though the meat was always tough as leather. Goat is not something thats available at the local grocery in Texas so I assume he got a freshly slaughtered animal from a local rancher. What I'm sure he didn't know, since only professional butchers know, is the carcass needs to hang under refrigeration for two weeks in order for the muscle fibers to break down and render the meat tender. Fresh meat ironically is tough meat. In any case, in the summer of my fourteenth year, Alex arranged an art showing at a private art gallery in Athens for the entire art faculty and my parents used this opportunity to take an extended European trip for three weeks. We spent the first week in the UK and France, the second in Italy, and the last in Greece. Needless to say I could describe a lot of experiences but I'll leave that for another time. The important roots of this dish involve a dinner we were invited to at the home of Alex's parents in Athens. His mother was an extraordinary cook. She made sheets of Baklava so large they had to be taken to a local bakery to be cooked. Her homemade cherry preserves and goats yogurt was one of the greatest culinary experiences of my life. I can no longer remember all of the courses but it was a meal fit for Alexander the Great himself. The one dish that stayed with me was her meatballs which were simple and rustic yet sublime at the same time. The recipe that follows is a fusion of those meatballs and the goat roasts that cemented in my mind an impression of flavors, while not traditional, of my experience of Greek cuisine. This was originally a meat ball recipe but as my skills in in the kitchen improved I bumped it up a notch and the manicotti version became a family favorite. Stuffing the manicotti does require some skill so I'm including instructions for the meat ball version at the end for those who find it a bit daunting. First things first...

Ingredients:

Meat mixture

1 lb. ground lamb(you can substitute beef but lamb is better)
1 TBS minced fresh flat leaf parsley finely minced
1 TBS minced fresh spearmint finely minced
1 TBS minced fresh oregano(preferably Greek) finely minced
If you must substitute dry spices use half as much(no judgement!)
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 lemon
1/2 cup Italian bread  crumbs
1 TBS salt
1 egg

Sauce

1 large can Italian plum tomatoes(pony up the fifty cents for the real deal. It matters)
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 TBS extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic minced or pressed

1 package Manicotti pasta

Place the ground lamb in a bowl and add the parsley, mint, oregano, black pepper, salt, bread crumbs, and egg. Add the zest of the whole lemon and the juice of half of the lemon and reserve the other half. Work the meat mixture with your hands until all of the ingredients are well incorporated and the meat takes on a slightly sticky texture. When your done it should look like this.



Cover the meat and place it in the fridge. Next we need to cook the manicotti pasta. This recipe yields eight or nine manicotti, less than a package contains, but I usually cook the entire package. Stuffing the pasta can be tricky and there might be ruptures so having spares is a good idea. I usually either give the extras to my pigs or chop them up for a pasta salad the next day. Follow the package directions, but reduce the cooking time by two minutes. Leaving the pasta slightly undercooked makes the stuffing process easier and they'll finish absorbing moisture from the sauce in the oven. When the pasta is cooked drain into a colander and rinse with cold water till cool. Next we stuff the manicotti. I've used a pastry bag to good effect but I prefer it for stuffing pasta with cheese fillings. Buy one, it's worth the coin. Usually I pinch off small pieces of meat mixture and push them in with my finger. To do this hold the pasta in the palm of your left hand with your thumb covering the opening at one end and your fingers gently curled around the pasta. Use your right hand to pinch off  little bits of meat and push it in the other end. Your thumb keeps meat from coming out the end and curling your fingers prevents pressure from meat accidentally bursting the manicotti. As you fill each manicotti place in a shallow baking dish. Try to choose a dish sized so the manicotti will fill the dish as much as possible. This will ensure good coverage of the sauce. Before you start the sauce preheat the oven to 350 degrees. You'll make the sauce while the oven heats. The sauce is very simple. In a medium sauce pan add the tomatoes. Using a spatula cut the plum tomatoes roughly in half. It doesn't have to be perfect, we just want the tomatoes to be the center of attention. Add the sugar, cinnamon, and garlic. You may add salt if you like but it isn't necessary. Heat on medium high, stirring frequently, until almost bubbling. The sauce will actually cook in the oven. Remove from heat and spread the sauce evenly over the manicotti. Cover the dish loosely with aluminum foil. You want to cover all the manicotti but allow steam to escape at the edges. This will help the sauce reduce and thicken. Place in the middle rack of the oven and cook for 45 minutes. After 45 minutes remove the foil and check the sauce. If it needs to thicken more cook another 15 minutes uncovered. Remove from oven and let stand. Now I promised you a meat ball version. It's pretty simple. Prepare the meat mixture like a above and roll out one inch meatballs and place in a baking dish. Cover with the sauce as before and bake uncovered 30 - 45 minutes until sauce is thickened. Serve over the pasta of your choice!

 I usually start off the meal with a Greek Meze platter of Dolmades, marinaded artichoke hearts, and greek salad dressed with extra virgin olive oil. I slice the remaining lemon in to wedges and add those to the platter. Dolmades are particularly good with a little lemon juice.



After the Meze I plate the manicotti, sauce and greek baked beans, and serve with warm garlic bread. The beans pictured at the top are a recipe from Diane Kochilas for baked beans with spinach and feta.  It was excellent! If you wish to explore Greek cuisine further I highly recommend her site. It not only is a treasure trove of authentic recipes, but a source for Greek history, culture, regional cuisines and influences. You can visit her site here. Meanwhile enjoy the fruits of your labor and keep scrabbling on!

Homemade Dried Pepper Flakes from my Garden

I had a bumper crop of Jalapenos this year so after I finished making hot sauce and pickling nacho slices I turned my mind to using ripened peppers. In the past I've dried them whole and then chopped them in the food processor. I was never totally satisfied with the finished product and it's very hard on the machine so I tried something different this year. First I chopped the fresh peppers in the processor until I had a uniform paste. Then I spread the paste on my dehydrator trays like so.



Most dehydrator manufacturers sell fine mesh plastic screens for this purpose as an accessory. However this is the Hardscrabble Gourmet and we like to do things on the cheap so I made some from left over aluminum window screen. Worked like a charm! Set your dehydrator at 98 degrees if it has a temp control and let her rip. When it's dry it looks like this. It took mine 48 hours but the weather was humid so your mileage may vary.



Using a spatula, I scraped the dried pulp out onto a sheet of newspaper. This is a trick to use with all your dried herbs. When your finished crushing them simply fold the newspaper to transfer your herbs to a container and then through it away. No fuss, no muss, and no clean up. Back to the peppers.



The sugars in the ripe peppers cause the dried paste to clump so I used a rolling pin to roll out and gently pound the stuff until I got a nice fine consistency perfect for measuring in the kitchen. Now I'll really be heating things up! If your looking for something to cook with pepper flakes try out my Summer Squash Marinara. There's still a little summer left to enjoy it!

Easter Sunday breakfast: Eggs Goldenrod

On Easter Sunday morning the first thing I would do is check to see if someone left me a chocolate rabbit during the night, the second thing would be to hunt for Easter eggs in the yard. Priorities! After the hunt my mother always turned my new found multicolored bounty into eggs goldenrod for breakfast. Its a simple breakfast that's fast and easy which makes it perfect for getting the family off to church. Not going to church? Why are you dying Easter eggs in the first place? Come on! Get thee to the chapel, it might do you some good. Without further ado, here's the recipe.

This makes four servings
5 or 6 hard boiled eggs
2 TBS butter or margarine (butter's better but if you must...)
1 TBS all purpose flour
1 cup milk
salt and pepper
toasted bread (I prefer white. Hey, this recipe's seriously white on multiple levels)

Peel the eggs and separate the white from the yolks and put the yolks aside in a bowl. Chop the the whites into roughly 1/2 inch chunks, put aside. Next heat a skillet to medium high and add the butter. When the butter melts, add the flour and stir until completely incorporated. Next add the milk and continue stirring until it bubbles and starts to thicken. Add the eggs with a dash of salt and pepper. Continue stirring until the mixture thickens to a nice gravy consistency then remove from heat. Spoon the egg mixture on to a piece of toast. Next take a cheese grater and grate the yolk on top until nicely coated and serve. You usually end up with some extra yolk so give the dog a little treat. Don't have a dog? Seriously, get a dog. They'll always appreciate your cooking! I hope you enjoy this little Easter tradition as much as I enjoy sharing it. Happy Easter!

Summer Zucchini Lasagna

 Today I have a perfect meatless Monday dish for summer, Zucchini lasagna. As happens frequently this time of year I have an abundance of summer squash coming in from the garden and I'm always on the lookout for ways to use and store it. Other than pickling, I know of few good ways to store summer squash. It can be frozen or canned but the texture always leaves a lot to be desired. In other words it gets mushy. I prefer to either use it in creamed soups which I can or freeze cooked entrees like this recipe. I'll bake this lasagna and freeze it in individual servings so we can enjoy it for the next six months. This dish is a based on a white bachamel sauce which is also great served over pasta or rice with some grated Parmesan. This recipe will also work well with other types of summer squash.

Here's your ingredient list:

2-3 sliced fresh summer squash, about 4 cups
3 fresh carrots, peeled and julienned thin
1/2 medium onion, chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
13 oz can sliced mushrooms
2 Tbs virgin olive oil
3 Tbs all purpose flour
3 cups milk, or 1 cup powdered milk mixed with 3 cups reserved liquid
32 oz Ricotta cheese
32 oz large curd cottage cheese
2 eggs
1/4 chopped fresh parsley
1/4 cup fresh chopped chives or scallions
1 1/2 Lb. grated mozzarella cheese
1 small package lasagna noodles

Put sliced squash and carrots in a covered microwave dish. Add water about half way up, sprinkle lightly with salt, and microwave 10 minutes on high. Drain and reserve liquid then put aside. Open the can of mushrooms and add the liquid to your reserve liquid. Take 3 cups of reserve liquid, add water if necessary, and mix in one cup of powdered milk. Next, heat olive oil in a dutch oven on medium high and add onions and garlic. Saute until onions become translucent. Add flour and stir until fully incorporated into the oil. Add milk and vegetables plus a dash of pepper and salt. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until sauce has a thick creamy texture. Remove from heat, cover, and set aside.

 Cook lasagna noodles according to package directions. While the noodles are cooking prepare the cheese stuffing. In a large bowl combine Ricotta cheese, cottage cheese, parsley, chives, and two beaten eggs.

Once noodles are cooked, rinsed, and drained, grease a large lasagna pan. Add a layer of noodles, sauce, and cheese mixture.

Sprinkle a thin layer of mozzarella and repeat. When your almost to the top add a final layer of sauce and top with the rest of the mozzarella. Place on a cookie sheet in a 375 degree oven and bake for 1 hour 15 minutes or until well browned. And this is the final product!

 

Allow to rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. This lasagna can bet a bit wet due to the moisture of the fresh squash. If you prefer a drier lasagna, cook the vegetables a bit longer in the microwave and drain in a colander for about 20 minutes to remove more of the moisture. I hope you enjoy this summertime treat!

Honeygram's Cheese Enchiladas and Chili con Carne

Today on Hardscrabble Gourmet, a new cooking video! In episode 7 I'm cooking up my drunken grandmother's cheese enchiladas with chili con carne. I have no idea where this recipe came from originally. My grandmother lived in Weslaco, Texas which is on the border with mexico and this dish does reflect some influences from northern Mexico. On the other hand the chili con carne is neither Mexican or Texican as far as I can tell. Typical Mexican Chili uses a salsa en polvo as it's base. This is a combination of Ancho, Pasilla, and either Chile de Arbol or Chipotle chiles pulverized in a mocahete. Very spicy! Comino, garlic, and Mexican oregano might also be added. In the US we use commercially prepared chili powder which usually contains ground Ancho, Paprika, and Comino. In contrast my grandmothers recipe contains Ancho, re-hydrated not ground, and garlic. Thats's it. You would think the chili would be less flavorful, but it's not the case. Ancho's have a deep complex flavor that's unique among chiles and the garlic provides a perfect counterpoint. The re-hydrated chile meat also produces a completely different texture and taste experience compared to powdered Ancho. Whatever it's origin's, Honeygram had a winner with this recipe and I'm proud to share it with you. The cooking is going to be a full blown fiesta and after you eat these you'll need a serious siesta so grab a margarita and let's get cooking!

Canadian Bacon and the art of Charcuterie

Pork loin out of the brine, trussed and ready to go!

Today I'm making Canadian Bacon. A wicked expensive deli meat that's created from one the most inexpensive cuts you can buy. And there in lies the purpose of this post, to introduce you to the fascinating world of Charcuterie. Charcuterie is the French word for the art of curing and preserving meats. Techniques in this art include brining, smoking, drying and curing. It deals not only with whole cuts, but sausage making, pates and terrines. Although the roots of Charcuterie are in the preservation of meats, it is in the rendering of inexpensive cuts, trimmings and even offal into sublime culinary creations that makes it attractive to the frugal cook as well as those who prefer to make the best use of the entire animal. For a Texas carnivore like me, the highest form of Charcuterie is the art of smoking. In this post I'll take you through the process of making Canadian Bacon without going into a lot of detail. Think of it as a guided tour. If your interested in exploring further, I'll provide some resources at the end to get you started.

First this pork loin was cured with a combination of salt, sugar, and curing salt(pink salt #1). Cures can be dry or wet, in this case it was a brining solution. Home curing offers the advantage of adding herbs and spices to the brine which are usually not present in store bought versions. In this case I added a healthy amount of garlic and fresh sage. Brining times vary by recipe and cut, in this case it was 48 hrs followed by twelve hours drying time in the fridge. Once the meat was cured and trussed it was time to put it in the smoker.

 

I'm using a vertical propane smoker with a variable temperature control. Smokers like these are fairly affordable, I payed under $200 for mine and it does a good job at hot smoking. Hot smoking should not be confused with BBQ which uses temperatures between 250 to 325 degrees. I still use a barrel pit for that purpose. Hot smoking requires a temperature range of 160 to 200 degrees.

Cold smoking at temperatures below 100 degrees is used for raw cured products such as cheese, dry sausages, and fish. I can cold smoke with this unit, but only on cold winter days. If you are interested in cold smoking you might consider a more expensive electric pellet type smoker. Or, if your handy, you can buy the pellet smoke generator by itself($150) and install it on your propane smoker later.

Doing it yourself also gives you a choice of which woods to smoke with. Some folks also like to add pungent herbs like fresh rosemary to the smoke box for some recipes. In this case I'm using a blend of cherry and apple wood which give a subtle flavor to the pork loin. If I where cooking ribs or brisket I would use one of the three native oaks that grow on my property for a deeper, more robust smoke flavor.

Another must have is an accurate temperature probe. For things to turn out correctly you need to monitor both the temperature of the smoker and the meat accurately. This one also has an alarm that sounds when the preset temperature is reached. Very handy! Finally after 3 hours of smoking, voila!

 

Now that's what it's really all about! If your ready to dive into Charcuterie I recommend Corned Beef as a great place to start since it doesn't require smoking or any fancy equipment. Meat Head Goldwyn has a great recipe on his amazing ribs website here. He doesn't have a lot a Charcuterie stuff but he has probably the most complete knowledge base for everything BBQ and grilling, including great articles on how to choose a grill or smoker. He also has a great article on nitrate/nitrite safety which demonstrates why I think feeding your children uncured hot dogs and deli meats is risky business. If your ready to go further and try sausage making and cold smoking I highly recommend "Charcuterie, The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing" by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn. I can't say enough, the writing is beautiful, passionate, the techniques are clear, and the recipes are comprehensive. Most important of all, the information on food safety is thorough and reliable. Hope this wets your appetite? Take your cooking to the next level and try Charcuterie!

Ben's Carne Guisada

TGIF! Lets celebrate with another Tex-Mex recipe, Carne Guisada. Carne Guisada is one of the quintessential cross cultural dishes that typify Tex-Mex's regional charm. Basically it's pot roast with a mexican flair. It's usually served on a plate with rice, beans, and warm tortillas. You'll also find it at the local taco stands in Texas in a foil wrapped packet of pure bliss. The general recipe just calls for meat but if your frugal like me, you can extend it by adding a couple of diced potatoes and simmering another thirty minutes. And be sure to serve hot tortillas and fresh Pico De Gallo. Like we say at my house, everything's better with Pico! Here's your ingredient list.

4-5 lbs. Chuck or Shoulder Roast
3 Tbs. canola oil
All purpose flour, about a cup
2 Tbs. Chili powder
1 tsp. ground comino
1 Tbs. salt
2 tsp. garlic powder
1/2 tsp. Accent(optional)

Cube the meat into roughly 1.5" chunks. Coat the meat in flour and set aside. Heat the oil in a dutch oven and add the meat. Turn meat to brown on all sides. Add enough water to cover the meat and reduce heat to medium. Stir in all your seasonings and cook uncovered for about 3 hours until meat is fork tender. Add water if necessary but not too much. You want it to cook down to the consistency of a thick gravy. Serve and enjoy!

A little aside on our optional ingredient, Accent. Accent is the commercial name for the much maligned MSG. This is probably the most over hyped ingredient in the food world. MSG is the synthetic form of glutamate that occurs naturally in most of our foods. Some of the highest concentrations are in vegetables. If your a vegetarian, your already consuming more glutamate than you would hitting the chinese buffet. In fact recent studies have discovered separate structures on the tongue that detect only glutamate indicating that we've evolved to seek it out in our food. There are no solid studies showing that MSG acts in the body differently from natural glutamate. There have been indirect indications that glutamate might be problematic, but nothing conclusive. That said there is a rare subset of people who get headaches from glutamate. But guess what, if you can eat mushrooms, your not one of them. There is a strong health risk associated with high sodium intake, but here's the kicker. MSG has half the sodium of salt with many times the flavoring power. I've actually reduced the over all sodium content of my dishes by using it without compromising flavor. If you have high blood pressure like me that's a good thing. And finally, let's get real. If your worried about MSG you have no business eating Carne Guisada anyway. That just leaves more for the rest of us who think sacrificing a few years of lifespan are worth decades of Tex-Mex bliss!